Monday, December 1, 2025

 万隆第一天 Bandung – Day One

早餐的温暖 Morning Breakfast



早晨,我离开旅店约三百米,在路边的小档口吃早餐。一碗热腾腾的粥,配上香脆的炸虾饼,再来一杯无糖咖啡。粥里料丰富,味道清爽,令人满足。  

In the morning, I walked about 300 meters from the inn to a roadside stall for breakfast. A steaming bowl of porridge, paired with crispy prawn fritters, and a cup of sugar-free coffee. The porridge was full of ingredients, light yet flavorful, and truly satisfying.

城市的苏醒 Awakening of the City

之后在附近街道闲逛,看到维修中的建筑仍然用竹子搭建鹰架。交通环岛处有一座雕塑——Tugu Pertigaan Kedung Pakuan,一匹骏马立于圆拱之下,造型奇特。旁边是总督府与Kedung Pakuan公园。  


Later, I wandered along the nearby streets and noticed that bamboo scaffolding was still used for building repairs. At a traffic circle stood the sculpture Tugu Pertigaan Kedung Pakuan—a majestic horse beneath a domed arch, striking in design. Beside it were the Governor’s residence and Kedung Pakuan Park.

街道逐渐热闹起来,人群涌动,摩托车与车辆川流不息。小贩推着小推车,在指定地点摆摊,生活气息浓厚。  


The streets grew lively, filled with people, motorcycles, and cars weaving through. Vendors pushed their carts to set up stalls at designated spots, adding to the vibrant rhythm of daily life.

火山之旅 Journey to the Volcano

早上七点,预约的导游来到旅店。今天的行程是参观火山口。车子在十字路口停下时,艺人拿着吉他在红灯前卖艺,司机趁机给他们一些小费。 




At seven o’clock, the guide arrived at the inn. Today’s plan was to visit a volcanic crater. At a crossroads, the car stopped at a red light where street performers played guitars, and the driver handed them a small tip.

穿过拥挤的城市街道,上了高速,直奔郊外。道路两旁是刚收割的稻田,远处火山耸立,景色优美,充满乡野气息。  





We passed through crowded city streets and entered the highway, heading straight for the countryside. On both sides lay freshly harvested rice fields, with volcanoes rising in the distance—a picturesque rural scene.

Kawah Putih 的奇景 The Wonders of Kawah Putih

早上九点抵达Kawah Putih火山入口。入口以木条辐射成半圆拱门,设计独特。  



By nine o’clock, we reached the entrance of Kawah Putih. The gateway was crafted with wooden beams radiating outward in a semicircular arch, a design both simple and distinctive.


进入内部,来到海拔2194米的火山湖。烟雾弥漫,湖面呈现一片白色。火山仍在活动,一侧浓烟滚滚,壮观非常。湖边的黄色硫磺结晶被当地人收集,用来制作纪念品与肥皂,据说能治疗皮肤病。在此自然要拍照打卡。  




Inside, we arrived at the crater lake at 2,194 meters above sea level. Mist drifted across the surface, turning it ghostly white. The volcano was alive, with thick smoke rising from one side—an awe-inspiring sight. Around the lake, yellow sulfur crystals formed, collected by locals to make souvenirs and soap, said to help with skin ailments. Of course, I took plenty of photos here.

随后沿着小路拾级而上,约五十米高处俯瞰火山口,景色又是另一番风貌。  


Then I climbed a small path, about fifty meters higher, and looked down into the crater. The view from above revealed yet another striking perspective.

茶园与雨景 Tea Gardens and Rainy Views

此时细雨飘落,气温寒冷。我沿着另一条小路缓缓下行,途中经过茶园。茶树沿山坡排列,宛如绿色的地毯,十分美丽。  





Light rain began to fall, and the air turned cold. I descended slowly along another path, passing through tea plantations. The tea bushes lined the slopes like a vast green carpet, breathtakingly beautiful.

我们来到湖边的一座餐厅。雨中喝上一杯热咖啡,望向烟雨蒙蒙的湖面,仿佛置身一幅山水画,别有风味。  






We stopped at a lakeside restaurant. With rain falling outside, I sipped a hot coffee while gazing at the misty lake—it felt like being inside a living landscape painting.

历史的回响 Echoes of History

回到城市,途经亚非会议纪念场所与博物馆。可惜当天休息,未能入内参观。  




Returning to the city, we passed the Asian-African Conference memorial and museum. Unfortunately, it was closed that day, so I missed the chance to visit this building


📜 文化脚注 Cultural Footnote

亚非会议(Bandung Conference, 1955)  

1955年4月,来自29个亚洲与非洲国家的代表齐聚万隆,代表了全球超过一半的人口。会议由印尼、印度、缅甸、锡兰(斯里兰卡)和巴基斯坦共同组织,旨在反对殖民主义与新殖民主义,推动亚非经济与文化合作。  


会议通过了著名的 “十项和平与合作原则”,强调:  

- 互相尊重主权与领土完整  

- 不干涉内政  

- 平等互利  

- 和平共处  

这次会议不仅是去殖民化时代的重要里程碑,也为后来 不结盟运动(Non-Aligned Movement) 和“第三世界”概念的形成奠定了基础。  


城市与夜晚 City and Night

晚上前往万隆的购物区。这里有唐人街,华人招牌林立,餐厅里美食多样。老一辈华人仍能讲华语,而年轻人则多以印尼语和英语交流。  







In the evening, I explored Bandung’s shopping district. There was a Chinatown, with Chinese signs everywhere and restaurants serving a variety of dishes. The older generation of Chinese residents still spoke Mandarin, while the younger ones mostly used Indonesian and English.


✨ 互动提示 Interactive Prompt

你是否也曾在旅行中遇到过这样的瞬间——雨中的咖啡、街头的艺人、或是历史的回响?欢迎在评论区分享你最难忘的旅行画面!  

Have you ever experienced such moments in your travels—coffee in the rain, street performers, or echoes of history? Share your most unforgettable travel memories in the comments!


Thursday, November 27, 2025

Train Journey from Surabaya to Bandung


 🚆 価水—万隆文化之旅

Train Journey from Surabaya to Bandung


Surabaya Gubeng Station

早上八点半,価水Gebeng火车站的钟声准时响起。列车缓缓启动,载着旅人踏上约十小时、七百公里的文化之旅。铁轨伸向远方,穿越田野,远处的火山在晨雾中若隐若现。  

转入高山峻岭,梯田层层叠叠,仿佛大地的呼吸。再一个转弯,平原展开,稻田在风中摇曳——初长的秧苗与金黄的稻穗并肩而立,生命的节奏在铁道旁歌唱。  

小镇掠过眼前,铁道两侧的老屋见证了岁月的沉淀。几位孩童在火车经过时挥手,笑容纯真,童心闪耀。进入大城市,清真寺的尖塔与圆顶在夕阳下熠熠生辉,成为文化的地标。  

随着列车逐渐攀升,海拔从伵水的几米到万隆的七百余米,空气渐渐清凉。车厢里,简单的套餐却意外美味,旅途的温暖在舌尖延续。傍晚六点半,火车终于抵达万隆,夜色与灯火交织,旅程在此刻圆满。  
























Reach Bandung Station


At 8:30 in the morning, the train departed punctually from Gebeng Station, carrying us on a ten-hour, 700-kilometer journey into the cultural heart of Indonesia. The tracks stretched endlessly, cutting through fields where distant volcanoes rose like silent guardians.  

As the train curved into the mountains, terraced fields unfolded like steps of the earth’s memory. Another turn revealed vast plains, where young rice shoots danced beside golden stalks ready for harvest—life swaying in rhythm with the wind.  

Passing through small towns, we glimpsed old houses pressed close to the rails, relics of history still alive. Children waved joyfully as the train thundered past, their innocence lighting the way. Approaching the city, minarets and domes of mosques shimmered in the fading light, symbols of faith and culture.  

The climb from Gebeng’s lowlands to Bandung’s 768 meters brought a gentle coolness to the air. Onboard, simple meal sets proved delicious, a quiet comfort for the long ride. By 6:30 in the evening, the train finally arrived in Bandung, where twilight and city lights embraced the traveler in a new chapter of discovery.  

🏞️ 万隆的历史 Bandung’s History  

万隆位于爪哇西部高原,平均海拔约768米,四周环绕着葱郁的巴拉雅山脉。早在史前时代,这片土地就有人类居住,考古发现显示至少有九千多年的历史。在巽他王国时期,万隆属于巴加加兰王国的辖地。17世纪起,荷兰东印度公司在此建立种植园,种植咖啡、茶与金鸡纳树,使万隆成为殖民经济的重要基地。  

19世纪,荷兰总督戴恩德尔斯修建了爪哇大邮路(Great Postweg),途经万隆,使其成为战略要地。1880年,连接巴达维亚(雅加达)与万隆的铁路开通,推动了工业与城市发展。殖民时期的万隆被誉为“爪哇的巴黎”,因其欧式建筑、咖啡馆与度假氛围而闻名。  

二战后,万隆成为印尼独立运动的重要舞台。1955年,万隆举办了著名的“亚非会议”,象征第三世界国家的团结与反殖民精神。如今,万隆不仅是西爪哇省的首府,也是印尼的教育与文化中心,拥有万隆理工学院与丰富的艺术传统。  

Bandung, located in the highlands of West Java at about 768 meters above sea level, has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with evidence dating back over 9,000 years. During the Sunda Kingdom era, it was part of the Pajajaran realm. In the 17th century, the Dutch East Indies established plantations of coffee, tea, and cinchona, making Bandung a hub of colonial agriculture.  

In the 19th century, Governor Daendels built the Great Post Road through Bandung, cementing its strategic importance. By 1880, the railway linking Batavia (Jakarta) and Bandung was completed, boosting industry and urban growth. Colonial Bandung was nicknamed the “Paris of Java” for its European-style architecture, cafés, and resort atmosphere.  

After WWII, Bandung became a stage for Indonesia’s independence struggle. In 1955, it hosted the Asia-Africa Conference, a landmark in global anti-colonial solidarity. Today, Bandung is not only the capital of West Java but also a cultural and educational hub, home to the Bandung Institute of Technology and a vibrant arts scene

🚂 火车在印尼文化中的意义 The Cultural Significance of Railways in Indonesia

印尼的铁路始建于1864年,是亚洲第二个拥有铁路的国家,仅次于印度。最初由荷兰殖民政府修建,用于将咖啡、茶、糖等农产品运往港口出口。铁路不仅是经济动脉,也成为殖民统治的象征。大量爪哇劳工在艰苦条件下修建铁路,留下了深刻的社会记忆。  

独立后,铁路由印尼国家铁路公司接管,成为民族主权的象征。它连接城乡,承载学生、工人、家庭的日常生活。火车站也成为文化交流的场所,见证了社会的变迁。近年来,铁路现代化与高速铁路的建设(如2023年开通的雅加达—万隆高铁)象征着印尼迈向未来的愿景。  

Indonesia’s railways began in 1864, making it the second country in Asia to adopt rail transport after India. Built by the Dutch colonial government, they served to transport plantation products like coffee, tea, sugar, and tobacco to ports. Railways symbolized both economic progress and colonial control, with thousands of Javanese laborers enduring harsh conditions to lay the tracks.  

After independence in 1945, the railways were taken over by PT Kereta Api Indonesia, becoming a symbol of sovereignty. Trains connected rural and urban communities, carrying workers, students, and families, while stations became hubs of cultural exchange. In recent years, modernization projects—including the Jakarta-Bandung High-Speed Rail launched in 2023—have turned railways into symbols of Indonesia’s future aspirations.