Train Journey from Surabaya to Bandung

 🚆 価水—万隆文化之旅

Train Journey from Surabaya to Bandung

Surabaya Gubeng Station

早上八点半，価水Gebeng火车站的钟声准时响起。列车缓缓启动，载着旅人踏上约十小时、七百公里的文化之旅。铁轨伸向远方，穿越田野，远处的火山在晨雾中若隐若现。  

转入高山峻岭，梯田层层叠叠，仿佛大地的呼吸。再一个转弯，平原展开，稻田在风中摇曳——初长的秧苗与金黄的稻穗并肩而立，生命的节奏在铁道旁歌唱。  

小镇掠过眼前，铁道两侧的老屋见证了岁月的沉淀。几位孩童在火车经过时挥手，笑容纯真，童心闪耀。进入大城市，清真寺的尖塔与圆顶在夕阳下熠熠生辉，成为文化的地标。  

随着列车逐渐攀升，海拔从伵水的几米到万隆的七百余米，空气渐渐清凉。车厢里，简单的套餐却意外美味，旅途的温暖在舌尖延续。傍晚六点半，火车终于抵达万隆，夜色与灯火交织，旅程在此刻圆满。  

Reach Bandung Station

At 8:30 in the morning, the train departed punctually from Gebeng Station, carrying us on a ten-hour, 700-kilometer journey into the cultural heart of Indonesia. The tracks stretched endlessly, cutting through fields where distant volcanoes rose like silent guardians.  

As the train curved into the mountains, terraced fields unfolded like steps of the earth’s memory. Another turn revealed vast plains, where young rice shoots danced beside golden stalks ready for harvest—life swaying in rhythm with the wind.  

Passing through small towns, we glimpsed old houses pressed close to the rails, relics of history still alive. Children waved joyfully as the train thundered past, their innocence lighting the way. Approaching the city, minarets and domes of mosques shimmered in the fading light, symbols of faith and culture.  

The climb from Gebeng’s lowlands to Bandung’s 768 meters brought a gentle coolness to the air. Onboard, simple meal sets proved delicious, a quiet comfort for the long ride. By 6:30 in the evening, the train finally arrived in Bandung, where twilight and city lights embraced the traveler in a new chapter of discovery.  

🏞️ 万隆的历史 Bandung’s History  

万隆位于爪哇西部高原，平均海拔约768米，四周环绕着葱郁的巴拉雅山脉。早在史前时代，这片土地就有人类居住，考古发现显示至少有九千多年的历史。在巽他王国时期，万隆属于巴加加兰王国的辖地。17世纪起，荷兰东印度公司在此建立种植园，种植咖啡、茶与金鸡纳树，使万隆成为殖民经济的重要基地。  

19世纪，荷兰总督戴恩德尔斯修建了爪哇大邮路（Great Postweg），途经万隆，使其成为战略要地。1880年，连接巴达维亚（雅加达）与万隆的铁路开通，推动了工业与城市发展。殖民时期的万隆被誉为“爪哇的巴黎”，因其欧式建筑、咖啡馆与度假氛围而闻名。  

二战后，万隆成为印尼独立运动的重要舞台。1955年，万隆举办了著名的“亚非会议”，象征第三世界国家的团结与反殖民精神。如今，万隆不仅是西爪哇省的首府，也是印尼的教育与文化中心，拥有万隆理工学院与丰富的艺术传统。  

Bandung, located in the highlands of West Java at about 768 meters above sea level, has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with evidence dating back over 9,000 years. During the Sunda Kingdom era, it was part of the Pajajaran realm. In the 17th century, the Dutch East Indies established plantations of coffee, tea, and cinchona, making Bandung a hub of colonial agriculture.  

In the 19th century, Governor Daendels built the Great Post Road through Bandung, cementing its strategic importance. By 1880, the railway linking Batavia (Jakarta) and Bandung was completed, boosting industry and urban growth. Colonial Bandung was nicknamed the “Paris of Java” for its European-style architecture, cafés, and resort atmosphere.  

After WWII, Bandung became a stage for Indonesia’s independence struggle. In 1955, it hosted the Asia-Africa Conference, a landmark in global anti-colonial solidarity. Today, Bandung is not only the capital of West Java but also a cultural and educational hub, home to the Bandung Institute of Technology and a vibrant arts scene

🚂 火车在印尼文化中的意义 The Cultural Significance of Railways in Indonesia

印尼的铁路始建于1864年，是亚洲第二个拥有铁路的国家，仅次于印度。最初由荷兰殖民政府修建，用于将咖啡、茶、糖等农产品运往港口出口。铁路不仅是经济动脉，也成为殖民统治的象征。大量爪哇劳工在艰苦条件下修建铁路，留下了深刻的社会记忆。  

独立后，铁路由印尼国家铁路公司接管，成为民族主权的象征。它连接城乡，承载学生、工人、家庭的日常生活。火车站也成为文化交流的场所，见证了社会的变迁。近年来，铁路现代化与高速铁路的建设（如2023年开通的雅加达—万隆高铁）象征着印尼迈向未来的愿景。  

Indonesia’s railways began in 1864, making it the second country in Asia to adopt rail transport after India. Built by the Dutch colonial government, they served to transport plantation products like coffee, tea, sugar, and tobacco to ports. Railways symbolized both economic progress and colonial control, with thousands of Javanese laborers enduring harsh conditions to lay the tracks.  

After independence in 1945, the railways were taken over by PT Kereta Api Indonesia, becoming a symbol of sovereignty. Trains connected rural and urban communities, carrying workers, students, and families, while stations became hubs of cultural exchange. In recent years, modernization projects—including the Jakarta-Bandung High-Speed Rail launched in 2023—have turned railways into symbols of Indonesia’s future aspirations.  

Surabaya Day 3 文化足跡-洒水到万隆

 🌄 洒水到万隆 | Journey from Surabaya to Bandung

10月27日，我继续在印尼的旅程。  

清晨，我从酒店叫来一辆三轮摩托车，载着我穿过街巷，前往约三公里外的火车站。那是通往万隆的起点，一段约十小时的长途。  

途中，恰好捕捉到太阳从街角升起的瞬间。光线透过屋檐与树影，带着一种别样的温柔与特色。  

早上八点半启程，傍晚六点半抵达万隆。十小时的旅途，仿佛是一首缓缓展开的诗篇。  

Gubeng Railway Station

On October 27th, my Indonesian journey carried me onward.  

On the morning of the 17th, I hailed a three-wheeled motor taxi from my hotel. It rattled through narrow streets, bringing me to the train station about three kilometers away—the gateway to Bandung, a ten-hour ride ahead.  

Along the way, I caught the rising sun from a street corner. Its light spilled gently across rooftops and shadows, carrying a quiet charm unique to the moment.  

Departing at 8:30 in the morning, I arrived in Bandung around 6:30 in the evening. Ten hours on the rails, unfolding like a slow, lyrical poem.  

Dancing Wood 午木

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Cultural Footprint Extension · KOREF Desaru Leisure

舞木 · 沉睡千年的律动

Dancing Wood · The Rhythm of a Thousand-Year Slumber

在清理沼泽湿地、挖掘池塘的过程中，意外发现了这些沉睡的古木。它们或许已埋藏千年，形态奇异，质地柔韧，仿佛等待着重生的召唤。  

While clearing the swamp and carving out a pond, I unearthed these ancient timbers—perhaps dormant for a thousand years. Their forms are strange, their textures pliable, as if longing to awaken into new life.

我将它们一一安置，依其姿态而不强塑，使其自然流露出舞蹈的神韵。每一根木，仿佛在风中旋转、在水边起舞，诉说着土地的记忆与时间的温柔。  

I placed each piece with care, letting its posture speak without force. Each timber seems to twirl in the wind, dance by the water’s edge, whispering the memory of the land and the tenderness of time.

此地亦有铁广石，大小不一，质地坚实，是雕塑与基石的良材。我将木与石并置，构成一场静默的对话——木之舞，石之根。  

Here lie iron-rich stones of varied sizes—solid, grounded, ideal for sculpture and foundation. I pair wood with stone, composing a silent dialogue: the dance of wood, the rootedness of stone.

我称之为「舞木」，不仅是形态的命名，更是对自然灵性的礼赞。  

I call them “Dancing Wood”—not merely a name of form, but a tribute to nature’s spirit.

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Cultural Footprint Extension · KOREF Desaru Leisure

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If you wish to experience a space where nature and art intertwine, consider visiting KOREF Desaru Leisure in Johor—a place that blends ecology, leisure, and creative exploration.

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Surabaya Day 2

 🌉 Surabaya 第二天 | Day Two in Surabaya

清晨的街头，咖啡香与糕点情  

一早醒来，我在街边的咖啡档叫了柸香浓的爪哇咖啡，搭配几样当地糕点，甜而不腻，入口即化。阳光洒在摊位上，空气中弥漫着咖啡与椰糖的香气。随后，我叫了一辆三轮摩托车——乘座在前方，风迎面而来，像是旅途的序曲。

Morning brew and roadside delights  

At dawn, I sipped a cup of rich Javanese coffee at a roadside stall, paired with delicate local pastries—sweet, soft, and fragrant. The morning sun lit up the vendor’s smile, and the aroma of coffee mingled with palm sugar filled the air. I hopped onto a front-seated tricycle, the breeze brushing past like the opening notes of a journey.

🌁 苏腊马都大桥 | Suramadu Bridge

三轮车载我穿越泗水与马都拉之间的壮丽之桥——苏腊马都大桥（Jembatan Suramadu）。这座斜拉桥横跨马都拉海峡，全长18.5公里，是印尼最长的桥梁。主桥跨度434米，主塔高达140.62米，双向四车道，气势磅礴。桥身如银龙卧波，连接着爪哇岛与马都拉岛的心跳。

The tricycle carried me across the majestic Suramadu Bridge (Jembatan Suramadu), a cable-stayed marvel stretching 18.5 km over the Madura Strait. As Indonesia’s longest bridge, its 434-meter main span and 140.62-meter towers rise like sentinels. With four lanes flowing in both directions, it felt like riding atop a silver dragon linking two islands’ pulse.

🏛️ Kota Lama 与文化广场 | Kota Lama & Taman Sejarah

我再次踏入 Kota Lama 的 Taman Sejarah 广场，那里人潮涌动，文化表演热闹非凡。偶遇一支约十人的脚车队，他们来自郊区，周日例行骑行至此，驻足交流，笑声如风，温暖了广场的空气。

Returning to Taman Sejarah in Kota Lama, I found the square alive with crowds and cultural performances. I met a group of ten cyclists from the suburbs—Sunday riders who paused here to rest and chat. Their laughter drifted like wind, warming the square’s atmosphere.

🥞 后巷煎饼与优雅妇人 | Alley Pancakes & Graceful Vendor

在一条后巷街角，我发现一档煎饼摊。档主是一位约三十岁的美丽妇人，煎饼动作优雅如舞，翻转之间，香气四溢。她的微笑与手势，仿佛是这城市的柔情缩影。

In a quiet alley corner, I stumbled upon a pancake stall run by a graceful woman in her thirties. Her movements were balletic—each flip releasing waves of aroma. Her smile and gestures embodied the gentle soul of the city.

⛪ 圣母诞生教堂 | Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary

继续前行，我来到一座哥德复兴式的天主教堂——圣母诞生教堂（Kereja Katolik kelahiran Santa perawan maria），也称为 Kepanjen 教堂。建于1899年，是泗水最古老的教堂之一。尖塔高耸，彩窗斑斓，历史在石墙间低语。

Further ahead stood the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Kepanjen Church), a Gothic Revival masterpiece completed in 1899. As one of Surabaya’s oldest churches, its spires soared and stained glass shimmered—history whispered through its stone walls.

🕌価水郑和清真寺

Muhammad Cheng Hoo Mosque Surabaya

Blending Islamic and Chinese architectural styles, this vibrant mosque stands out as a unique cultural and learning center open to all faiths. Striking red-and-green details, pagoda-like roofs, and peaceful grounds create a memorable backdrop for prayer and reflection. Community activities, language classes, and a library add to its lively atmosphere. Many travelers mention guided tours that highlight its history, architecture, and cultural significance, making it a meaningful stop for anyone exploring.

融合了伊斯兰与中华建筑风格，这座充满活力的清真寺以其独特的文化与学习中心形象而闻名，对所有信仰者开放。鲜明的红绿装饰、仿宝塔屋顶以及宁静的环境，为祈祷与沉思提供了难忘的氛围。寺内还设有社区活动、语言课程与图书馆，使这里生机盎然。许多游客提到，导览解说带人深入了解其历史、建筑与文化意义，使这座清真寺成为探索当地文化时极具意义的一站。

Blending Islamic and Chinese architectural styles, this vibrant mosque stands out as a unique cultural and learning center open to all faiths. Striking red-and-green details, pagoda-like roofs, and peaceful grounds create a memorable backdrop for prayer and reflection. Community activities, language classes, and a library add to its lively atmosphere. Many travelers mention guided tours that highlight its history, architecture, and cultural significance, making it a meaningful stop for anyone exploring this area

⛩ 广德尊王庙

Vihara Dewa Kong Teck Chun On

Next, I went to the nearby local chinese temple.

The highly evocative Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong delivers a blast of unfiltered culture. The primarily Buddhist complex — with touches of Confucian and Taoist influences — spans both sides of a narrow lane, marked by ornate temple gateways. Expect flickering candles, drifting incense, devoted pilgrims in prayer, concrete columns entwined with dragons, and intricately carved teakwood altars.

接下耒，我耒一座当地华人建的神庙，一座充满魅力的**广德尊王庙（Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong）**展现了浓郁而纯粹的文化气息。以佛教为主，融合儒家与道教元素，庙宇横跨在一条小巷两旁，以精美的拱形门相连。烛光摇曳、香烟袅袅、信众虔诚祈祷；龙形盘绕的石柱与雕刻精致的柚木神坛，共同营造出庄严又生动的氛围。

🍜 Pasar Atom 小吃中心 | Pasar Atom Food Haven

最后，我来到当地华人聚集的小吃中心——Pasar Atom。琳琅满目的摊位上，有猪肉粉、传统糕点、香气扑鼻的炒面。这里是味觉的交响曲，也是文化的交汇点。许多华人家庭在此团聚，笑语盈盈，食物与情感交织成一幅温暖的画面。

I ended the day at Pasar Atom, a bustling food haven where the local Chinese community gathers. Stalls overflowed with pork noodles, traditional pastries, and sizzling stir-fries. It was a symphony of flavors and a meeting point of cultures. Families chatted over meals, weaving food and emotion into a warm tapestry.