Java Island Footprint

 

文化足迹第五日：从乌布到爪哇的山与火

告别乌布的清晨，我坐上网约车前往登巴萨巴士站，开启一段跨岛之旅。巴士缓缓驶向西巴厘的Gilimanuk港口，窗外的椰林与稻田渐渐退去，换成海风与渡口的喧哗。渡轮载着我横越巴厘海峡，抵达东爪哇的Banyuwangi。摩托车穿行在乡间小路，最终抵达山脚下的小村——Licin，我在这里的住宿是 Rumah Bata，一间朴实温暖的砖屋。

村庄四周是层层叠叠的梯田，远方的Ijen火山静静伫立，像一位沉思的巨人。这里的人们纯朴而热情，一句问候，一杯茶，都是旅人最温柔的慰藉。

On the fifth morning, I bid farewell to Ubud and took a ride to Denpasar bus station, embarking on a cross-island journey. The bus rolled westward toward Gilimanuk, where the lush rice fields gave way to sea breeze and ferry horns. Crossing the Bali Strait, I arrived in Banyuwangi, East Java. A motorbike ride through winding village roads led me to Licin, a quiet hamlet nestled at the foot of Mount Ijen. My stay: Rumah Bata, a humble brick house with a heart.

Surrounding the village were terraced rice fields, cascading like green waves. In the distance, Mount Ijen stood solemn and majestic, a silent guardian of the land. The locals welcomed me with warmth—simple greetings, shared tea, and stories that made me feel at home.

🌄 第六日：梯田晨光与山村漫游

清晨，我租了一辆摩托车，在Licin山区自由穿行。日出时分，阳光染红了天边，梯田在晨雾中泛着金光。火山的轮廓在远方若隐若现，每一个转角，都是一幅画。村民在田间劳作，孩子在路边嬉戏，生活在这里缓慢而真实。

At dawn, I rented a motorbike and wandered through the hills of Licin. The sunrise painted the sky in hues of crimson and gold, casting a warm glow over the terraced fields. Mount Ijen loomed in the distance, its silhouette etched against the morning mist. Every bend in the road revealed a new canvas of life—farmers tending to crops, children playing by the roadside. Life here moved slowly, sincerely.

🔥 第七日：Ijen火山的蓝焰奇观

凌晨一点，我与七位登山友乘小型客车前往30公里外的Ijen基地营。风衣、头灯、面罩——我们整装待发，开始约7公里的登山之旅。山路陡峭，体力不支者可雇推车上山。两小时后，我们抵达分叉口：往下700米，是通往火山湖与Blue Flame奇观的路；往上1公里，则可沿火山边缘远眺火山湖与浓烟翻腾的火山口。

站在火山之巅，望着那翻滚的浓烟与深邃的火山湖，我感叹自然的伟大与神秘。下山后回到住宿，已是早上九点，早餐后，我骑车返回Banyuwangi，准备搭乘火车前往Probolinggo，展开下一段Bromo火山之旅。

At 1 a.m., I joined seven fellow trekkers in a van heading 30 km to the Ijen base camp. Equipped with windbreakers, headlamps, and gas masks, we began the 7-kilometer ascent. The trail was steep—some hired pushcarts to help them up. After two hours, we reached a fork: 700 meters downhill led to the crater lake and the famed Blue Flame; 1 kilometer uphill offered panoramic views of the lake and the smoking caldera.

Standing atop the volcano, gazing into the swirling smoke and the vast crater, I felt humbled by nature’s raw power. By 9 a.m., we returned to our lodge. After breakfast, I rode back to Banyuwangi to catch the train to Probolinggo, where the Bromo volcano awaited.